DIY: To fix a hole

Daniel and I have had several DIY projects since we've moved it (from installing a shutoff adapter on the refrigerator water line to replacing all of the toilet components), but I thinking tackling the hole in the bathroom wall might have been the most daunting. However, we're still young, and so we were up to the challenge.As preparation for this task, we read several articles online, discussed the process with my coworker David (who happens to be building a house at the moment), and gathered additional tidbits of advice from our dear friends at Lowe's (who see us way more than we would like). It seemed like it should be a breeze (no, really, I had myself convinced that this could be accomplished in a weekend at the most).

In retrospect, I should have learned that nothing is as easy or as fast as it initially appears (especially for a novice). That said, I thought it might be helpful to include an account of the process.


Materials and Tools:

• 1 sheet drywall (we had to get mold and mildew resistant since this was the bathroom; however they do have smaller sheets that are geared for patching); make sure you measure your existing drywall for its depth (1/2 inch or 5/8 inch)

• Drywall screws (we used 1 1/2-inch)- 2x4 wood for framing (you have to attach the drywall to something)

• Screws to attach the 2x4 to the other studs in the wall

• Joint compound (we used a faster drying compound that was in the paint section of Lowe's; also it was premixed which eliminated a good deal of the mess)

• Joint/drywall tape (we went with the self-adhesive kind with holes)

• Putty/drywall compound knife (they actually sell these in sets of various sizes, which I would recommend-- although if you buy only one, I would say to get a larger sized knife)

• Sanding block, medium and fine grit (make sure this isn't sandpaper, but the flexible block that can be found in the drywall section)- Primer- Dust mask

• Jigsaw

• Measuring tape

• Straightedge

• Pencil

• Shop Vac

Procedure:

1) Measure size of hole and cut 2x4s accordingly.

2) Attach 2x4s to surrounding studs using appropriate screws. Make sure that when drywall is placed into the hole, it will be flush with the wall.

3) Using a straightedge and measuring tape, mark line on drywall (drywall should fit snugly into hole).

4) Use jigsaw to cut drywall as straight as possible.

5) Place drywall into hole. It should fit snugly and should not be sticking out from the wall.

6) Use drywall screws to secure drywall panel to 2x4s. Screws should be set just below the drywall surface, and you definitely don't want them sticking out past the drywall.

7) Fill any gaps between wall and drywall panel with spackling and allow to dry for specified time (2 hours in our case).
8) Apply self-adhesive joint tape along line joining drywall and wall (this stuff was really great because you don't have to apply an initial layer of joint compound to act as a tape sealant).




9) Using putty knife, apply a thin, smooth layer of joint compound over the tape and allow to dry (since we were tackling the project in the evening, we allowed the compound to dry overnight).

10) After compound has dried, apply another smooth coat. Make sure your edges taper into the wall (to appear seamless, as though it's part of the original wall) and make sure any screw indentions are covered. Allow compound to dry.


11) Using sanding block (and dust mask!), sand entire surface so that everything is nice and smooth. This will make a big mess (dust everywhere), so be prepared for some serious cleanup.

12) Use primer to cover newly drywalled space (this will make painting much easier, and in our case, also hid a couple of errors).


Voila! Brand-new wall!